Capitol Reef National Park
A precarious precipice on the Golden Throne trail
I wasn’t sure what to expect at Capitol Reef, having never heard of it before, but this park really blew me away. After coming from Grand Teton and Yellowstone, giants in the National Park world, Capitol Reef’s small scale vibe made it incredibly easy to navigate as a mom with two young children (4 & 2). The desert climate would be harsh during the summer season as Capitol Reef only receives 8 inches of rainfall a year, but lower crowds and cooler weather during our October visit made this park very approachable.
Where we stayed near Capitol Reef National Park
Aerial view of Beas Lewis dispersed camping near Capitol Reef National Park
Pros: Great views, good cell reception, availability during peak season, close to the park
Cons: Windy, lots of fine red dust gets everywhere
Since we’d just gotten the LV back from major electrical + solar upgrades, we wanted to find a good spot to boondock near Capitol Reef National Park as a shakeout test. And, since I work from the road, we had to have good cell service too. Fruita, the one NPS campground inside Capitol Reef is beautiful, but unfortunately has no cell service. Thankfully, there are a number of options to dry camp on BLM land just outside the park that have good cell service.
We settled on the Beas Lewis dispersed campsites, 1 mile East of Torrey on Highway 24 and 10 miles West of the Capitol Reef visitor center. Heading east from Torrey on Highway 24, look for a dirt road on your right marked Route 1280 less than a quarter mile past the SkyRidge Inn B&B (Google Maps link to Beas Lewis entrance). You can see the intersection of 24 and 1280 on the left side of the aerial photo above.
There are a number of sites directly off this main road, including two really nice ones near the large rock formations prior to reaching the cattle crossing. If you go straight after the cattle crossing, you will find a half dozen sites with good views just before the quarry. The sites don’t have much privacy and are closer together than others, but the views may be worth it.
Taking a right after the cattle crossing will lead you instead to sites further back with more space and privacy. This is where we found a nice level spot with great views and good cell reception, although we ended up parking a bit close to the road since there was a couple with a pop-up camper further back in the site on our first night (Google Maps link to campsite). Our site had a makeshift fire pit, which we didn’t use given the drought conditions and fire restrictions. There was plenty of space for the kids to run around and play. The biggest downside was that they got covered in fine red dust, so fine it was like talcum powder.
If you keep going, the road splits again, with tent and RV sites down both sides. Even though there were several dozen tents and campers during our time at Beas Lewis, there were always open sites available.
What to do with kids at Capitol Reef National Park
I took one evening to plan three days worth of activities for my sons and me. I split our days into two chunks (before & after nap time) and also mixed two hard days with one easy low key day. I flip-flop a hiking afternoon with a morning at our camper to allow the kids to have some free play all to themselves. Below are my top picks for hikes and activities exploring Capitol Reef.
Capitol Reef kid-friendly hiking trails
There are numerous hiking opportunities at Capitol Reef. I broke it down by skill level, so you can more easily find the hike best fit for you and your family. We did all of these but I did save the strenuous one to do when my husband was available. We also carry my younger son (2yo) in a hard carrier for more treacherous routes or when he’s tired.
Grand Wash Hike (Easy)
Grand Wash Hike in Capitol Reef National Park is a 2.2 mi out and back fairly flat canyon hike. You can start either off HWY24 or off the Scenic Road taking a left on the 1.3mi. unpaved Grand Wash Rd. Check weather before going and do not go if rain is in the weather report. Flash flooding does occur here as it’s a dry streambed deep in the heart of the canyons. The out and back is 2.2mi. The route walking towards HWY24 is downhill and we chose to hike 1mi in then turn around and hike 1mi out. The trail is level, very wide, and not strenuous.
Grand Wash Trail
Stopping to allow some play and you found this incredibly high hole in the canyon. I held my breath as you climbed and then Luca followed you.
Grand Wash Trail
Stopping to climb a massive boulder. Up and down. Up again, down again. One more time?
Sulphur Creek Waterfall Trail (Easy)
Sulphur Creek Waterfall Trail in Capitol Reef National Park is a 1.8-mi round trip hike. On a hot, sunny day allow plenty of time for exploration as the creek provides both a way to cool down and endless fun for children. With numerous and necessary creek crossings bring your water shoes and prepare to be wet. This shallow Sulphur Creek meanders through immensely tall red rock canyons and provides multiple views of The Castle as well as lush vegetation. Even if you don’t make it to the waterfalls (as we did not), this trail is a blast and well worth it for little hikers.
Start by parking at the Visitor Center and walk behind the facilities to the right. You will see a trail that takes you to the creek - make a left. Follow the creek to your hearts content.
Sulphur Creek Trail
I think I was singing “I’ve been working on the railroad.” We sang a lot this hike. It works well to keep them moving.
Sulphur Creek Trail
The creek was cold but our sneakers dried quickly and you don’t have to stay in the water long on the crossings. It was a dream.
Hickman Bridge (Moderate)
Hickman Bridge is one of the more popular hikes in Capitol Reef National Park. It may be best to go first thing in the morning or wait till evening as we did, to beat both the heat and the crowds. This 2mi roundtrip starts with an ascent up the side of the canyon. Don’t lose hope, keep going. It meanders up and down affording some breathtaking high desert views. This is not an easy trail, and if you only make it to the first natural bridge (the Nels Johson Bridge) you are not alone. Our boys had a hard time leaving this bridge as it could easily provide an hour of entertainment.
I highly recommend buying ($0.50) the map at the trailhead. It provides interpretations for 17 markers along the trail. It gave my little hikers something to look forward to, search for, and learn from along the way. This hike is easily accessed off HWY 24 on the left. Look for signs for Hickman Bridge, there is a parking lot and restrooms.
Hickman Bridge Trail
The boys loved this first natural bridge we came to though it wasn’t the massive Hickman yet. They loved the sand so much it was hard to get them to continue.
Hickman Bridge Trail
We put our 2yo in a carrier for various parts of the hike due to the steepness and dwindling sun. But there were definitely parts he could manage himself as well.
Hickman Bridge Trail
Happy Snacks at the top with Hickman Bridge in the backdrop. Loved the ability to go through this tunnel and loop around the other side.
Footage from the drive into the Capitol Gorge road on our way to Golden Throne Trail in Capitol Reef National Park
Golden Throne Trail (Strenuous)
The Golden Throne Trail in Capitol Reef National Park is a 4mi out and back trek hugging the rocky outcroppings of Capitol Gorge. You immediately begin your ascent up rocky terraces and colorful canyons then begin to meander the switchbacks that slowly climb you towards the top. Each switchback allows for recovery but be aware that this trail comes dangerously close to cliff facings along the way. Once you reach the top it levels out into beautiful desert browns and greens until you reach the golden dome and a sign saying the trail ended. Go past the sign and walk towards the edge of the cliff. True joy is looking down on the valley below and knowing you accomplished so much.
From the Visitor Center take the Scenic Drive for 10mi or until it dumps you onto an unpaved road called Capitol Gorge Road. You will most likely want 4WD to get you the 2.4mi to the trailhead.
Again, this is the hike I did not attempt alone but waited for my husband to assist. Our 2yo. was strapped into a carrier for the majority of the hike due to the cliffs but was allowed to get out on the last 1/2mi as the top flattened out. Our 4.5yo completed it on his own. If you do hike this trail with children allow 2hrs. at a minimum just for hiking.
Golden Throne Trail
There were parts where my 2yo could walk but for the majority of this hike he was in the pack for safety. Our 4yo managed it well on his own.
Golden Throne Trail
GoPro footage of the sheer cliffs we climbed around. The switchbacks give you a chance to catch your breath.
Enjoying sunset at Capitol Reef
Very simply take a drive back into the park and check out one of these three spots for sunset: Panoramic Point, Sunset Point, or Goosenecks. Our favorite ended up being the easiest to get to - Panoramic Point but you could include the others in the short hikes with kids.
Exploring the town of Fruita inside the Park
The town of Fuita isn’t actually much of a town it’s more a beautiful country road meandering through orchard upon orchard. With over 2,000 trees Capitol Reef has one of the largest historic orchards in the National Park Service. This truly makes Capitol Reef stand out as a Park and adds something extra special to the visit. Apple, peach, cherry, pear, apricot and plum, with harvest occurring generally from June through October. I did hear that fruit is free to sample and a small fee is charged for you pick when in season.
Orchards in Fruita, Utah in Capitol Reef National Park
I was bummed to find that the harvest this year was not good, so no trees were bearing fruit on our visit. What we did instead was have a lovely picnic lunch at Ripple Rock Nature Center (open during summer) under the orchard trees. My boys could have played here all morning.
If you’re so inclined you can park along the road and walk the road to the Gifford House for cinnamon buns or fresh pies. Open at 8AM until they run out, the Gifford House is a historic house from the Mormon pioneer days. There are some picnic tables as well as a stable and horses to enjoy. We also saw on multiple occasions mule deer meandering through the fields.
The Gifford House in Fruita. Opens at 8AM Cinnamon rolls sold out by 9!
Old cellar to explore in Fruita near the Giffford House.
We sat to eat our cinnamon rolls and look who joined us. The mule deer love this area and are frequent visitors.
Earn a Junior Ranger Badge and other learning opportunities
I have found the junior ranger program to be an excellent way to learn about the history and geologic identity of each national park. It’s supposed to be for the kids, but it’s so exciting for me as well!
As part of the program you must attend a ranger led talk so ask at the Visitor Center for a schedule. We met a group at the Gifford House for a Star Talk one evening at 8pm. The International Dark-Sky Association recognized Capitol Reef National Park as a Dark Sky Park which means the land possesses exceptional starry nights due to the low light pollution. It was fun for them to stay up late and gaze at the stars finding the Milky Way and various constellations as the Ranger pointed these out. We saw numerous shooting stars and bats circling above us and all in all it was a very dreamy evening.
Working from Capitol Reef National Park
There is little to no useable cell service inside Capitol Reef National Park proper. But thankfully, we had good signal on both AT&T and Verizon LTE networks while staying at Beas Lewis, woo hoo! It was the most stable, usable signal we’ve had at any BLM dispersed camping so far. I was able to join work calls with very little lag and download HD movies.
Internet Speed Tests (via OpenSignal iOS app)
Verizon
Equipment: Mifi 8800L Jetpack + WeBoost Drive Reach cell booster + Wilson OTR omni-directional antennaMorning: 5.9 Mbps DOWN 23.2 Mbps UP 63 ms Latency
Mid-day: 13.4 Mbps DOWN 30.8 Mbps UP 54 ms Latency
Evening: 14.0 Mbps DOWN 28.5 Mbps UP 58 ms Latency
AT&T
Equipment: iPhone X + WeBoost Drive Reach cell booster + Wilson OTR omni-directional antennaMorning: 29.1 Mbps DOWN 13.3 Mbps UP 75 ms Latency
Mid-day: 26.2 Mbps DOWN 14.9 Mbps UP 70 ms Latency
Evening: 1.5 Mbps DOWN 14.9 Mbps UP 65 ms Latency (not sure what’s up with the slow download)
In this post we just touched the surface of what is Capitol Reef National Park. We hope you enjoyed our take aways and gained some insight into exploring it for yourself. Thanks for following along!
